Island hopping and turning 30

A month ago I turned 30.  Age has never been a big thing for me – age to me is more of a state of mind, and I’ve got no qualms about a number.  But something about the big 3-0 seemed special and different; leaving my 20’s meant taking on the role of being a real, experienced adult.  I’m no longer a ‘twenty-something’, a phrase that lately seems to invoke ideas of nothing but a free-spirited traveler, exploring the endless possibilities ahead, living with sometimes reckless abandon, figuring out life and making plenty of mistakes along the way that will serve to form the basis of the responsible choices that will eventually follow.  I suppose, reflecting back, that sort of described the last decade of my life – although my travel was more in the form of roadtrips around America than travel around the world.  I certainly learned a lot in my twenties, about just about everything – education, relationships, friendships, bartending, hangovers, late nights, city living, adult responsibilities, choices, irresponsible choices, priorities, making mistakes, pursuing dreams, and all of the life lessons in between – but I’m happy to turn the next page and see what my thirties are all about. 

In honor of this special birthday, and to celebrate a year of Peace Corps service, I decided to do some island hopping in southern Thailand.  With no real plan in mind except an idea of where I wanted to go, I took the overnight bus to Bangkok and left the next evening on the train to the southern province of Trang.  I wanted beautiful beaches and sparsely populated islands that were small enough to walk around.  I had packed my tent and planned to go with the cheapest of all possible accommodations: camping.  Lodging can get expensive, especially on the islands, and I wanted to use my money for other things.  I arrived in Trang in the morning, found a minivan to a pier, got on a boat full of Thais and was on the beach in no time at all.  The first stop was Koh Mook – the largest of the three islands I visited, and the only one inhabited by locals.  It was a little challenging to find a place to camp – the beach areas were dominated by resorts and everyone I asked just told me no.  I finally found a place that had a covered area where I could set up my tent for 100baht/night (about $3).  I set my tent up and went out to explore and enjoy the first of many beautiful island sunsets.

Pier to Koh Mook

First camp site

Sunset at Koh Mook

I woke up early the next day to go for a run to the sunrise side of the island.  I finished on the beach and walked around exploring all the critters and water creatures that were left after the tide went out.  I saw an incredible number of starfish of all sizes, and I even threw one back in the water and watched it come back to life – super awesome (it was white, the color of dead starfish that people collect sometimes, and when I threw it back it started to turn brown as it generated all these clear little tubes that it wrapped around itself, then turned itself over as it sunk back into the wet sand and water).

Sunrise

Starfish!

Coming back to life: the starfish I threw back in the water

The edge of the island: much more beach when the tide is out

Koh Mook is known for the Emerald Cave, a cave that requires you to swim through an enclosed tunnel of water to get to a small, open air beach area on the inside.  I found a place that rented kayaks for the day instead of the hour and was told I could kayak around the island to the cave.  I spent most of the day in the kayak, reveling in the incredible scenery and stopping at a small beach on the way.  A few locals had suggested going to the cave in the late afternoon after all the tourist ferries had left for the day.  I heeded their advice and got there to find just a couple small boats anchored outside.  I kayaked in through the tunnel all the way to the opening that ended at a small beach area.  It was pretty cool, and I actually had it all to myself as I was the last one to leave late in the afternoon (although it was a little creepy kayaking through the dark tunnel with no one else around). 

Cave entrance - the water really is that beautiful!

Through the cave! The hole is where I came out

Another view

Coming back out

Beach day at Koh Mook

Camping on the beach

A couple days later I was headed to Koh Kradan, a nearby island that I’d heard great things about.  I was put on a long-tail boat and taken to the entrance of the Emerald Cave where I was put on one of the tourist ferries that was headed where I wanted to go.  As we approached the next island I started to notice the clear emerald water I’d heard so much about here.  I asked one of the boat tour guides about where I could camp and he pointed to the end of the island that included the national park area.  We got to Koh Kradan and I was in awe of just how gorgeous it was.  I got off the boat and after just a few minutes of walking I found the park area.  I asked one of the park rangers where I could camp if I had my own tent, and he said wherever.  Since there wasn't really anyone around, I picked a spot that looked like it had been previously set-up for a tent space just off the beach. 

On the ferry to Koh Kradan

Secluded beach front camping

Standing on the beach at Koh Kradan

After soaking up the gorgeous views for awhile I set out to explore on the one path through the island.  The island had no roads and no motor vehicles – it was quiet and incredible.  The path made it’s way to a small, rocky ‘sunset beach’ and then continued on through the jungle until it came out through one of the resorts. Koh Kradan was exactly what I’d been looking for.  I had secluded beach front camping for 50 baht per night (less than $2) on the most gorgeous beach I'd ever seen in my life.  The island was amazing and I spent my time just soaking it all in – in the water, on the beach, on the driftwood swings attached to trees and in a beachside hammock.

The only path through across the island

Graveyard of driftwood and washed up debris

Sunset beach

Sunrise, just outside my tent

Walked out into the water with my camera - this far out and only up to my knees!

Dusk on the beach

A couple days later I somewhat reluctantly intended to make my way to another island: Koh Ngai.  I met the same tour boat operator I had come to this island with, and he told me to join in with them as they’d be making their way to Koh Ngai.  He let me join in on the rest of their tour – lunch, snorkeling, and two other small islands included for no extra charge than the transportation to the next island. 

Transportation between islands: tour ferry

Snorkeling stop

When I got to Koh Ngai I got off and started to make my way to the opposite end of the beach where I’d heard of a place I could set up my tent.  This island was also gorgeous, but I couldn’t help but think it paled a little bit in comparison to the personal paradise I found at Koh Kradan.  I found the place I was looking for: a locally owned area of beachfront property called Light My Fire Society, run by a Thai man named Don and described as an easy living freedom camp.  Don gave me a spot to set up my tent and even let me borrow a small mattress and pillow as well. It was a great (and cheap) place to stay, and even included night time bonfires with a little live music around the fire.

I spent my time here in much the same way I had at the previous island: exploring, relaxing and taking in the gorgeous views.  The more I travel by myself the more I enjoy it.  Of course it’s a little bit lonely sometimes, but to be able to pick up on a whim each and every day without worrying about someone else’s plans, interests, hesitations or complaints is pretty awesome.  This was the first time I’d spent my birthday alone with no friends or family around.  It felt strange, but being able to celebrate my 30^th birthday on a few relatively secluded islands in southern Thailand is something I might never do again in my life, and it was everything I wanted it to be. A couple days later I reluctantly bought a ticket to the ferry and made my way back to the mainland.  I was headed to Bangkok for a week for our Mid-Service Conference.

Paradise