Songkran Festival: Thai New Year

After a few quiet days back at site it was time for the beginning of Songkran Festival – Thai New Year.  Every year Songkran is celebrated throughout Thailand with trips to the wats to make merit, spending time with family and ‘playing water’.  People pour water on each other as a way of cleansing off the old in order to bring in the new year and offer blessings and good wishes.  It’s the biggest holiday celebration in Thailand and lasts for at least several days – we officially had 3 days off work and a really long weekend.  In my community this celebration is kicked off every year with a day of parades, ceremonies, some water throwing and a beauty pageant near one of the local temples.  I went early dressed in the designated Songkran attire (a brightly colored, flowered shirt) and enjoyed the festivities throughout the day.  Events like these allow me the opportunity to see a lot of people I know from around the community in one place, including many students that were in the middle of their summer break from school.  That night I was headed to Chiang Mai in northern Thailand to participate in one of the biggest Songkran celebrations in Thailand. 

Me with some of the local health station staff

They love pictures!

Beauty pageant. No one's sitting/standing in the space near the stage because it's sunny - everyone's in the shade

Parade

'Dancers'

Pouring water on the elderly

Waiting to perform

Chiang Mai is famous for their Songkran celebration and I was excited to participate along with a few fellow PCVs.  Chiang Mai’s old city is surrounded by a moat and much of the ‘water playing’ occurs on the main street running parallel around it.   April is the hottest month of the year in Thailand so participating in an all day water fight provides a welcome relief from the heat.  A word to the wise: if in Chiang Mai during the days of Songkran, prepare to get wet – it’s inevitable.  Everyone involved arms themselves with water guns while people pile in the backs of pickup trucks to drive through the streets and douse people around the city with buckets of sometimes ice-cold water.  There’s not really a way to escape it, except to avoid the area entirely.  The first day I got there I left my guesthouse, fairly unprepared except for putting my phone in a ziploc bag.  I went in search of some local noodles and came back half-soaked with a ham and cheese sandwich from 7-11 (after the first couple bucket-splashes I decided not to walk much farther and instead peruse the seven for something delicious).   

After I’d fully prepared myself and met up with a few friends, we donned our flowered shirts, waterproof bags and newly purchased water guns and took to the streets.  Within minutes of hitting the main street, we were full participants in the all out water fight.  The street was full of people, Thais and farangs, everyone throwing water at everyone else.  It was complete madness in places, and it was awesome. 

We took part in the water fight every day, walking up and down the streets shooting water at everyone and maintaining our soaking wet status. 

Even the local police joined in!

Getting water from (but mostly playing in) the moat

Armed and ready: the gun on the left broke the first day, so I got the one on the right - a dinosaur attached to a water bottle.  I named him Charles and he was so awesome I kept him and took him home

We camped out and took refuge in a bar for awhile, then splashed everyone coming down the street

One day I decided to go do a little temple sight-seeing before engaging in the daily water fight.  I did it all on foot and on my way down one street I noticed a small crowd of Thai people gathered in front of a restaurant and a few policemen up and down the street.  I stopped for a bit to see what was happening, and a few moments later everyone got out their cell phones, iPads and cameras and started taking pictures of someone I couldn’t quite see.  Soon enough I noticed the person being photographed – the Prime Minister of Thailand.  I stood around for a few minutes watching with the other Thais around before making my way to a nearby temple.  On my way back I decided to retrace my steps and see if she was still there.  Sure enough she was, and was getting ready to leave with her family.  Several people were taking the opportunity to get pictures with her, and wanting one myself I decided to make my way to the front.  Eventually I jumped in there and politely asked for a picture.  She asked where I was from, I told her and briefly explained that I was a volunteer in Isan.  She was very gracious and I thanked her for the picture – so unexpected and pretty awesome!

Me with the Prime Minister of Thailand

Monks working at one of the temples

A few pictures from the temples I went to

Mid-service

Mid-Service Conference (MSC) is exactly what it sounds like – a time halfway through our Peace Corps service when we all gather together in Bangkok for reflections, a look at the year ahead and some medical check-ups.  While it was great to see everyone and have our group back together for the first time in many months, things felt different this time.  We were back from the front lines of PCV service – we’d seen it all, done less than we’d expected, overcome challenges of all varieties and now things were different.  We were able to share stories of failed attempts at projects, small (albeit significant) successes, or the all too graphic poop story with which every PCV has an unfortunately intimate familiarity.  I couldn’t help but think we all felt a little beaten down from the last year while also feeling a bit overwhelmed at the fact that we were in for another year of this.  This mid-service crisis business is for real, and it’s not easy to get through.  We had some good times together during the week: lots of laughs, heartfelt conversations, dirty jokes, and shenanigans that naturally develop as a result of a night out in Bangkok.  Unfortunately two volunteers from our group were returning back to America the following week – two people that I considered good friends.  This experience is like nothing else, and the people here with me are people I’ll share a special bond with for the rest of my life.  They’re my Peace Corps family, and as cheesy as that sounds I realized just how true it was when I had to say goodbye to two of them. 

During our few days together we had a night designated for us, which included dinner and a ‘Creative Art’ night that invited anyone and everyone to share anything from a song to a skit to an interpretive dance.  We enjoyed performances from the Peace Corps staff and several volunteers.  I also decided to share something I’d written.  It started as a somewhat therapeutic task for myself and turned into something that I thought could be helpful if shared – a way to commiserate and verbalize some of the small but significant challenges we face every day as volunteers in Thailand.  I was surprised at the positive response I got as a result of sharing it and was happy I did.  It’s included at the end of this blog, and while you might not understand much of it unless you’ve been a PCV in Thailand, it presents an honest perspective from a seasoned one year volunteer.

PC staff original performance

Our last couple days in Bangkok included our medical and dental appointments as well as plenty of time to hang out and spend time with other volunteers.  We splurged on American food and enjoyed pizza and burgers and bagels and the small joys of being a part of a westernized society.  Instead of the usual hostel or small, basic, cheap room lodging, several of us joined funds and rented a condo in a high-rise, complete with air conditioning, skyline views and a private pool. 

Condo with a view: Bangkok sunset

From pizza and burgers in a high-rise condo in the middle of Bangkok to cheap noodles in the middle of the mountains in Petchabun, a group of us took a few days after our time in the city to decompress at my friend Brandon’s site in the province that divides the northern and northeastern regions of Thailand.  We make these crazily drastic transitions somewhat frequently in our Peace Corps experience – it’s never easy and it requires the flexibility that all PCVs must possess in order to make it through our 2+ years of experience.  Luckily this time we had cooler weather and some beautiful mountainous scenery to help us with the transition this time – and the company of a few fellow PCVs.  We all had mixed feelings about our conference and our time left as volunteers, and we were all affected by the fact that two of our people were headed back to America.  It was great to be in the company of friends as we gradually transitioned back to our small-town, rural Thailand lives.

Back in the country

Boating

Exploring the low river

Brandon showed us around and took us on a boat trip on the river by his house where we got to see lots and lots of different butterflies.  This is also the only place in Thailand that has small freshwater jellyfish, but unfortunately it had rained the days before, making the water cloudy enough that the jellyfish weren’t out.  The boat trip was quiet, relaxing and beautiful. 

The rest of the trip included a lot of lounging and relaxing as well as a trip to a local wat (temple) that was very unique and very different from all other temples in Thailand. 

So much detail everywhere, including the floors

We used self-timers on our cameras to get these jumping shots.  Between a few different cameras we've got a bunch of differently timed jumping shots.  We spent quite a bit of time trying to get it just right, because in Thailand, the photos are always important.

Stopped at a waterfall on the way home

We enjoyed delicious dinners at Brandon’s host family’s house and lunches at the local restaurant/convenience store.  We also got to make s’mores and have a small fire outside, which was really awesome – and they were delicious.  Feeling rested, relaxed and somewhat ready to head back to site, I made my way back to my home in northeast Thailand a couple days later.  

An open letter to Thailand and my Peace Corps Thailand experience

It’s hard to quantify our relationship with words, but I have to attempt to verbally express certain aspects of it in order to come to terms with where I stand.  It’s been a rough road and I’ve arrived at a time to consider the good and the bad and decide whether to stick it out or cut my losses.  It’s been a year, after all, and I think we’ve had sufficient time to really try to get to know each other.  

I hate to use the term ‘love at first site’, but suffice it to say you’ve appealed to me since the day I met you.  From your aesthetic beauty to the never-ending list of delicious things to eat to the warm welcomes from strangers, you’ve effortlessly shown me your natural strengths and beauty for which my appreciation has yet to wane.  With this being said, I’d be remiss to say our relationship is anything close to perfect.  We’ve certainly had our fair share of disagreements – but that’s part of any relationship.  You throw me curve balls consistently which, if nothing else, always keep me on my toes. 

Sometimes I think you still just don’t understand me, despite how long we’ve been together.  I’m the definition of an introvert and yet every day you push me to act otherwise.  Sometimes I appreciate it and sometimes it makes me want to strangle you.  Either way, it’s exhausting.  I wish you could appreciate me for who I truly am sometimes instead of always pushing me to be something I’m not.  It’s not you, it’s me – but I’ve tried to help you understand as best I can.  I appreciate your efforts, and I’ve learned and grown from the experience, but I need time to myself – no people, no talking.  It’s not you, it’s me.  I hope you can understand.  We’re fundamentally different, and while opposites often attract in the most beautiful, complementary ways, we might have to agree to disagree on this as I don’t see either of us changing much in this area anytime soon. 

Communication is an integral part of any relationship and, let’s face it, we’ve had our fair share of breakdowns.  I can take the blame for some of this of course, and I have no doubt that language differences or misunderstandings will likely continue through the end of my time here.  But I have to ask:  why, when I spent our first few months together learning how to speak, do you now speak to me mostly in a language that is so much different and harder to understand?  I feel like I spent the first 3 months getting to know you and then I moved to site and saw a completely new and different side of you that only confused me.  I just wish sometimes you could empathize with me and understand how hard it can be.  I can say that our discourse from the beginning up until this point has improved dramatically, and it’s nice to look back and see how far we’ve come.     

Our fundamental differences, coupled with countless miscommunications and misunderstandings have consumed my thoughts at many points throughout the last year, and as much as I hate to admit this, it’s an important part of my experience and our time together.  I came here with so much to offer and often fear that my knowledge, experience and education are severely under-utilized in my time here, which has caused numerous bouts of extreme frustration and disappointment.  I’m so much more than just another farang here to teach English and yet many times I think that’s the only way you see me.  I overhear explanations that I’m here to teach English and it breaks my heart a little bit.  I know you don’t mean it, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t hurt just the same.  I say this from a place that cares so deeply about youth development that I just want to be able to cultivate the things we call ‘life skills’ that I know from experience can provide support and understanding to the already challenging course of youth and adolescence.  I just wish you would try to understand. 

I’ve realized, at many points throughout our time together, that we might want different things – a common theme in many failed relationships and separated partners. 

Certain things about you are still confusing to me – I’m quite certain you feel the same way.  Why can’t I buy beer between 2pm and 5pm, but I can buy it before noon? 

I’ve realized at many points throughout our time together that we might want different things.  It’s a common theme in many failed relationships and separated partners, but in just a year you’ve managed to make me a better person, and I think that’s a critical component to any successful relationship and something for which I’m continually grateful.  You’ve helped me pursue things I otherwise disliked or was afraid to try.  The fact that you could help me become a runner is still amazing to me, and I truly appreciate it.  You’ve introduced me to so many new things, people and ideas that have given me a multitude of experiences, memories, and thoughts to take with me no matter where I go. 

All things considered, sometimes a relationship is wrapped up in all the little things that make it great:  an over the top enthusiastic greeting from the kids, the smiles you never hold back, a bag of fruit from a neighbor, a short but meaningful Thai conversation with a stranger while traveling, a well-timed compliment about my language skills, thumbs up from a car full of monks or a cheer from a yai while I’m out for a run, a really good mango, an impromptu game or activity with the kids that turns into something special – this list could go on for days, and for this I am always grateful.  The little things are what bring a smile to my face or pick me up from a bad day. 

As long as you continue pushing me to be a better person, I’m here for you.  I’m not sure what the future holds for us but I’m looking forward to making new and different strides forward and seeing how our relationship progresses in the next year.  

Island hopping and turning 30

A month ago I turned 30.  Age has never been a big thing for me – age to me is more of a state of mind, and I’ve got no qualms about a number.  But something about the big 3-0 seemed special and different; leaving my 20’s meant taking on the role of being a real, experienced adult.  I’m no longer a ‘twenty-something’, a phrase that lately seems to invoke ideas of nothing but a free-spirited traveler, exploring the endless possibilities ahead, living with sometimes reckless abandon, figuring out life and making plenty of mistakes along the way that will serve to form the basis of the responsible choices that will eventually follow.  I suppose, reflecting back, that sort of described the last decade of my life – although my travel was more in the form of roadtrips around America than travel around the world.  I certainly learned a lot in my twenties, about just about everything – education, relationships, friendships, bartending, hangovers, late nights, city living, adult responsibilities, choices, irresponsible choices, priorities, making mistakes, pursuing dreams, and all of the life lessons in between – but I’m happy to turn the next page and see what my thirties are all about. 

In honor of this special birthday, and to celebrate a year of Peace Corps service, I decided to do some island hopping in southern Thailand.  With no real plan in mind except an idea of where I wanted to go, I took the overnight bus to Bangkok and left the next evening on the train to the southern province of Trang.  I wanted beautiful beaches and sparsely populated islands that were small enough to walk around.  I had packed my tent and planned to go with the cheapest of all possible accommodations: camping.  Lodging can get expensive, especially on the islands, and I wanted to use my money for other things.  I arrived in Trang in the morning, found a minivan to a pier, got on a boat full of Thais and was on the beach in no time at all.  The first stop was Koh Mook – the largest of the three islands I visited, and the only one inhabited by locals.  It was a little challenging to find a place to camp – the beach areas were dominated by resorts and everyone I asked just told me no.  I finally found a place that had a covered area where I could set up my tent for 100baht/night (about $3).  I set my tent up and went out to explore and enjoy the first of many beautiful island sunsets.

Pier to Koh Mook

First camp site

Sunset at Koh Mook

I woke up early the next day to go for a run to the sunrise side of the island.  I finished on the beach and walked around exploring all the critters and water creatures that were left after the tide went out.  I saw an incredible number of starfish of all sizes, and I even threw one back in the water and watched it come back to life – super awesome (it was white, the color of dead starfish that people collect sometimes, and when I threw it back it started to turn brown as it generated all these clear little tubes that it wrapped around itself, then turned itself over as it sunk back into the wet sand and water).

Sunrise

Starfish!

Coming back to life: the starfish I threw back in the water

The edge of the island: much more beach when the tide is out

Koh Mook is known for the Emerald Cave, a cave that requires you to swim through an enclosed tunnel of water to get to a small, open air beach area on the inside.  I found a place that rented kayaks for the day instead of the hour and was told I could kayak around the island to the cave.  I spent most of the day in the kayak, reveling in the incredible scenery and stopping at a small beach on the way.  A few locals had suggested going to the cave in the late afternoon after all the tourist ferries had left for the day.  I heeded their advice and got there to find just a couple small boats anchored outside.  I kayaked in through the tunnel all the way to the opening that ended at a small beach area.  It was pretty cool, and I actually had it all to myself as I was the last one to leave late in the afternoon (although it was a little creepy kayaking through the dark tunnel with no one else around). 

Cave entrance - the water really is that beautiful!

Through the cave! The hole is where I came out

Another view

Coming back out

Beach day at Koh Mook

Camping on the beach

A couple days later I was headed to Koh Kradan, a nearby island that I’d heard great things about.  I was put on a long-tail boat and taken to the entrance of the Emerald Cave where I was put on one of the tourist ferries that was headed where I wanted to go.  As we approached the next island I started to notice the clear emerald water I’d heard so much about here.  I asked one of the boat tour guides about where I could camp and he pointed to the end of the island that included the national park area.  We got to Koh Kradan and I was in awe of just how gorgeous it was.  I got off the boat and after just a few minutes of walking I found the park area.  I asked one of the park rangers where I could camp if I had my own tent, and he said wherever.  Since there wasn't really anyone around, I picked a spot that looked like it had been previously set-up for a tent space just off the beach. 

On the ferry to Koh Kradan

Secluded beach front camping

Standing on the beach at Koh Kradan

After soaking up the gorgeous views for awhile I set out to explore on the one path through the island.  The island had no roads and no motor vehicles – it was quiet and incredible.  The path made it’s way to a small, rocky ‘sunset beach’ and then continued on through the jungle until it came out through one of the resorts. Koh Kradan was exactly what I’d been looking for.  I had secluded beach front camping for 50 baht per night (less than $2) on the most gorgeous beach I'd ever seen in my life.  The island was amazing and I spent my time just soaking it all in – in the water, on the beach, on the driftwood swings attached to trees and in a beachside hammock.

The only path through across the island

Graveyard of driftwood and washed up debris

Sunset beach

Sunrise, just outside my tent

Walked out into the water with my camera - this far out and only up to my knees!

Dusk on the beach

A couple days later I somewhat reluctantly intended to make my way to another island: Koh Ngai.  I met the same tour boat operator I had come to this island with, and he told me to join in with them as they’d be making their way to Koh Ngai.  He let me join in on the rest of their tour – lunch, snorkeling, and two other small islands included for no extra charge than the transportation to the next island. 

Transportation between islands: tour ferry

Snorkeling stop

When I got to Koh Ngai I got off and started to make my way to the opposite end of the beach where I’d heard of a place I could set up my tent.  This island was also gorgeous, but I couldn’t help but think it paled a little bit in comparison to the personal paradise I found at Koh Kradan.  I found the place I was looking for: a locally owned area of beachfront property called Light My Fire Society, run by a Thai man named Don and described as an easy living freedom camp.  Don gave me a spot to set up my tent and even let me borrow a small mattress and pillow as well. It was a great (and cheap) place to stay, and even included night time bonfires with a little live music around the fire.

I spent my time here in much the same way I had at the previous island: exploring, relaxing and taking in the gorgeous views.  The more I travel by myself the more I enjoy it.  Of course it’s a little bit lonely sometimes, but to be able to pick up on a whim each and every day without worrying about someone else’s plans, interests, hesitations or complaints is pretty awesome.  This was the first time I’d spent my birthday alone with no friends or family around.  It felt strange, but being able to celebrate my 30^th birthday on a few relatively secluded islands in southern Thailand is something I might never do again in my life, and it was everything I wanted it to be. A couple days later I reluctantly bought a ticket to the ferry and made my way back to the mainland.  I was headed to Bangkok for a week for our Mid-Service Conference.

Paradise