Saturday, August 31, 2013

Treats and misunderstandings

In the interest of adding general updates and a few photos, this blog post is pretty random.  But first I must admit that this week I ate a sweetened condensed milk sandwich.  It was just what you might be imagining: two pieces of bread with sweetened condensed milk in the middle.  Only in Thailand, where bread is a treat that farangs eat for every meal and sweetened condensed milk is something that is poured in most beverages and over many foods, would I consider this to be a delicious treat.  Also, this was an option for a mid-morning snack at school.  Other options included meat on a stick (hot dog), meat on a stick (pork), and meat on a stick (fish balls).  I’m just glad they’ve already mastered so many healthy snack options for kids so I won’t have to worry about trying to helpfully suggest some possible alternatives.

A while back I went with a few of my co-workers and a group of students from one of the local schools to a local national park.  It was an all day event held on a Saturday, and when I was told about it I understood that it was a training for the kids about local tourism and a brief training about being junior tour guides (with which they have, or will have, some experience since they live in the village in my community that has a large cave in a mountain – a tourist attraction for Thais traveling on the local main highway).  Knowing this, I dressed in appropriate ‘work attire’ – a below the knee length skirt and a collared button down shirt.  This was in fact a training, and I even helped by teaching/practicing a few brief English phrases with them (because that is why I am here!).  What I was not told, or was told but did not understand, is that after lunch we’d all be going on an excursion through the forest/mountain (sometimes I think they like to intentionally leave things out, or not try to explain them to me in order to laugh at me later).  They all had a laugh and asked if I could participate in my attire.  I assured them I could and off we went.  It started out easy, with a wide paved trail, but eventually I found myself crawling on my knees and basically climbing through trees – in my skirt.  I worried most about the appropriateness of it, but my skirt was long enough that I didn’t have any real risks of indecent exposure.  We stopped to take some pictures along the way and they were impressed with my skills and strength (seriously, they told me).  Then we played in a waterfall before heading home. Here's a few pictures from that day...






I’d like to think my Thai is improving every day.  If not what I say, then at least what I’m able to understand when other people are talking.  This is not the case with Issan, the local dialect where I live.  I’ve learned a few things and am starting to pick up a little more, but when someone speaks to me strictly in Issan dialect there’s a good chance I won’t understand most of what they’re saying.  (Also, just like in America everyone here speaks a little bit differently – faster, slower, quieter, etc. – and sometimes a person will speak Issan so quickly and with such little enunciation that it literally sounds like jibberish and I find myself just trying to pick out a real word or two that I know).  A lot of people are really helpful and make an effort to speak central Thai with me.  If I’m in a group of people, they’re most often speaking Issan dialect unless they’re speaking directly to me.  A few people, depending on where I am in my community, that speak to me strictly in Issan.  I recently went to a wat (temple) with a couple kids from school during a tour they gave me of their village.  One of the monks came out to chat with us, and within about 10 minutes the kids abandoned me and I was left struggling through an hour of the most difficult conversation of my life.  I was told this monk spoke English well.  This was not only not true, but he also only spoke to me in Issan, even after I politely explained that I can speak and understand central Thai, but I haven’t learned as much of the local dialect and have a harder time understanding a lot of things.  He was amused by the conversation; I had to try extremely hard to not let my ever-increasing frustration show on my face.  We had something that resembled a conversation and he told me to come back next week to talk to him again.  

I played a game with a group of students a couple weeks ago that was basically ‘Monkey in the Middle’, and the idea was to make connections between the game and the idea of being excluded from activities or excluding other people from participating.  They enjoyed the game and had a lot of laughs.  In our brief discussion after the activity I asked what it felt like to be the person in the middle of the circle.  Their response was that it was fun.  They liked being the person in the middle as much (if not more) than being part of the outer circle.  That pretty much ruined any further discussion I hoped of having about being excluded, but brought to light another interesting perspective from youth in Thailand.



I made brownies recently for my host family.  I used a box of American brownie mix I got from the large supermarket about 45km away from my house, and cooked them in a rice cooker – which my family thought was hilarious.  It didn’t work as well as I thought – the brownies cooked unevenly and I had to stir them a couple times so all of the batter would get at least a little bit cooked.  They weren’t pretty, but they were so delicious (it’s a rare thing to get really excited about food, especially any food that’s not Thai, and have it be as delicious as you want it to be).  My host family loved them and my host mom wanted to take them to the market and sell them.  I took a few to some teachers the next day, and they promptly asked me if they eat them with rice.  I said no – if you eat them with rice they will not be delicious.  They saved them for lunch, and sure enough one of the teachers broke her brownie into little pieces and mixed it in with her rice and vegetables.  She enjoyed it anyway. 


Speaking of food (because we always are in Thailand), I get called both fat and slim at least once a week – usually more.  I was coming back from a run the other day and stopped to chat with a couple neighbors who were sitting outside.  One of the women said I was really slim now – when I first came here I was big, but now not so much. The next day a woman at one of the local health stations tried to convince me to do a 4 day detox with her because I need to slim down (incidentally she just calls me fat all the time, so I’m getting used to it/starting to ignore her).  One of these times I’m going to explain to them that in America if you comment on someone’s physical size, especially if it’s the first thing you say to them when you see them, it’s inconsiderate and just rude.  After all, most of what I’m supposed to be accomplishing here is cultural exchange and working on mutual understanding, so why not?  Then maybe she won’t call me fat every time she sees me.